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Jewelry Terms
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| Metals/Materials |
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Alloy - A mixture of two or more metals.
Base Metal - A common and inexpensive non-precious metal used as the core material when making jewelry. Brass and nickel are the common base metals, though copper is sometimes used as well. Unless otherwise specified, all products featured on our website feature a brass base metal.
Brass - A yellow metal alloy comprised of approximately 50% copper and 50% zinc.
Bronze – A metal alloy comprised of an 8:1 ratio of copper and tin.
Copper – Copper is a reddish-colored metal.
German Silver - A misnomer for an alloy of copper, zinc and nickel.
Gold-Plated - Refers to a base metal which has been electro-chemically bonded with at least 0.0025 mm of gold.
Marcasite - An iron ore material, pyrite, that is facetted into rose cuts and set into silver or pewter jewelry
Nickel - Nickel is a magnetic transition metal that is silvery-white in appearance yet physically hard and ductile. Due to its permanence in air and its inertness to oxidation, it is often used as a base metal or alloy in jewelry.
Palladium - A white precious metal belonging to the platinum group, it weighs a little more than half as much as platinum and sells for half the price.
Platinum - A non-corrosive silver white metal, which is heavy and has a high tensile strength.
Precious Metal - A precious metal is a rare metallic chemical element of high economic value. Chemically, precious metals are less reactive than most elements, have high luster, and have higher melting points than other metals. The best-known precious metals are gold and silver. Other precious metals include the platinum group of metals which consist of platinum, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium, osmium and iridium.
Rhodium - The most expensive of all the precious metals, Rhodium is a rare silvery-white metal and a member of the platinum family. Rhodium can be applied to base metals (brass, sterling silver, gold or some other alloy) to give it a shiny white surface which resembles platinum. This process is generally used to increase the durability and enhance the appearance of the metal(s) it is applied to.
Sterling Silver - Sterling Silver is a mixture of 925 parts fine silver and 75 parts copper, also read as 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. While other metals besides copper can be mixed with silver to form “sterling silver”, extensive research and testing has shown copper to be an ideal mate to silver improving silver’s hardness and durability without affecting its naturally beautiful color.
White Gold – A gold alloy made of nickel which sometimes contains palladium or zinc that resembles platinum.
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| Processes |
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Enamel - Process of fusing powdered colored glass to a surface by means of high heat.
Engraving - A technique in which metal is cut away with a tool known as a “graver” to form a design, done by either hand or machine.
Electroplating – A method in which an electric current deposits a layer of metal on an object (i.e.: gold over a base metal).
Etching – Removal of part of a metal surface by acid for a decorative effect.
Filigree - Wire twisted into patterns, usually gold or silver, may be soldered to a sheet of metal or twisted to form an openwork pattern.
Foiling - A technique used to enhance the color of a gemstone, a thin sheet of metal is applied to the base of a stone which is in a closed setting.
Gilding - A process of covering substances such as silver, base metal, wood with a thin layer of gold or an alloy.
Inlay - Materials such as stones, gems, woods and metals are inserted and cemented into the surface of another material and ground down to create a smooth surface.
Plating - A process used on some various metals and alloys giving added brilliance and to help deter corrosion and signs of wear to the metal(s) it is adhered to. With normal use, the plating will eventually wear off.
Vermeil - Gold-plated or gilded silver.
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| Gemstones |
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Cubic Zirconia - Cubic zirconia (or CZ) is zirconium oxide, is a mineral that is extremely rare in nature but is widely synthesized for use as a diamond simulant, or substitute. The synthesized material is hard, optically flawless and usually colorless, but may be made in a variety of different colors. Due to its low cost, durability, and optical similarity to diamond, synthetic cubic zirconia has become the most popular and economically feasible diamond simulant over the past 30 years.
Freshwater Pearl - Pearls found in river mussels.
Rhinestone – Rock crystal which is faceted into beads, originally from the Rhine River.
Simulated Stones – Natural or synthetic substances meant to resemble a genuine gemstone, such as cubic zirconia.
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| Gemstone Cuts |
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Baguette - A gemstone cut in the shape of a narrow rectangle.
Brilliant - A cutting style most often used for diamonds, consisting of 58 facets, also known as “modern” or “full” cut.
Calibre – Small stones cut in usually rectangular shapes and faceted in a step cut to fit exactly into a setting or against another stone.
Emerald – The number of facets in an emerald cut may vary from 50 to 58. This gem cut typically results in a rectangular shaped stone which is elongated and octagonal with beveled corners and a smooth, flat crown. The emerald cut was perfected on its namesake, intending to intensify the stone’s color. Emerald cuts have less sparkle than other facet gem cuts, making imperfections more visible. Yet, the emerald gem cut remains an excellent way to emphasize both the clarity and color of stones with minimal imperfections.
Marquise - Although this cut can be used for other transparent stones like sapphires, this popular 58-facet gem cut results in an oval with pointed ends – which resembles a “diamond” shape. When choosing a Marquise, take care to look for sharp edges and pointed ends that increase the risk of damage to the stone. Also long narrow stones are more likely to break. A length to width ratio of 1.5 is often considered ideal.
Navette - A gemstone shaped like a boat or oval with pointed ends.
Oval - An oval gem cut is distinctive in that its facets are most often an odd number, ranging from 43 to 57. The lack of symmetry elongates the sparkle of oval gem cuts, which adds a “big look” to smaller stones.
Pear - The 58-facet pear gem cut is the perfect match for the half-bezel setting. The half-bezel cradles the blossom end of the stone and loops a band of precious metal securely over the stem of the stone. Pear cuts with stem ends set into bezels are also often seen swinging as pendants on necklaces and dangling earrings.
Princess - Similar to a brilliant cut but adapted to a square shape, this highly faceted, symmetrical gem produces a gemstone of 76 facets. However, don’t be fooled by the numbers. Because of the many facets in a princess cut, the crown of the stone is usually very thin. Likewise, the square cut yields heavier finished stones per size of rough. Although brilliant light may be displayed, colors are seldom seen.
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| Settings |
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Bezel - A gemstone setting where a strip or wall of metal encircles the gemstone.
Channel - A row of stones of the same dimension, fitted into a metal channel.
Gypsy – A setting in which the stone is sunk into the surrounding metal leaving the top of the stone almost level with the top of the metal surface.
Invisible – A channel setting using calibrated stones without any metal showing from the top.
Pavé - A stone setting technique whereby the entire surface of a jewel is covered or paved with closely set stones.
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| Types of Jewelry |
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Bangle - A non-flexible bracelet.
Choker - A necklace approximately 15 inches long.
Double Clip - Type of brooch consisting of two halves joined together on a frame which can be detached and worn individually.
Lace Brooch - Small brooch usually set with diamonds.
Lavaliere - A chain from which an ornament or gemstone hangs in the center.
Locket - A jewel which opens on a hinge.
Negligee - A long necklace that usually terminates in irregular length with tassels or drops.
Pendaloque - A type of pear shaped or tear drop gemstone faceted as a brilliant cut and suspended from a smaller stone which is usually separated by a bow or other motif.
Piqué - Tortoiseshell or horn which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl, silver or gold.
Strap Necklace - A mesh chain with pendants suspended by a short, fine chain resembling a fringe.
Tutti Frutti - Jewelry set with multi colored gems carved in shapes of leaves, flowers and berries and often in a basket design.
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| General Jewelry Terms |
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Carat - Unit of weight used for precious stones.
Cross Facet - Small triangular facets above and below the girdle of a brilliant cut stone.
Crown - Part of a cut gemstone above the girdle.
Facet - A flat surface ground or cut and polished on the surface of a gemstone.
Gallery - A strip on metal with a pattern usually refers to the sides of a ring.
Girandole - A shape that consists of three pear-shaped stones or pearls hanging from a large stone or decorative motif such as a bow.
Girdle - The widest part of a gemstone which divides the crown from the pavilion.
Mother of Pearl – Also known as Nacre, is the naturally-occurring smooth iridescent organic-inorganic composite that is found in the interior lining of the shells of certain mollusks.
Patina - Discoloration that forms on metals such as silver and bronze but often planned for in the artist’s design, can also be introduced artificially by use of chemicals.
Pavilion - The lower part of a cut gemstone below the girdle.
Rondelle - A pierced piece of metal or gemstone strung between the beads in a necklace.
Shank - Hoop part of a ring.
Slide - A jeweled fastener, which slides onto a chain or fabric ribbon.
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